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WHY MARCHE
?
Tuscany has long
been the dream destination of many people who want a holiday or retirement
home of their own. A romantic villa in a picturesque landscape, a little
apartment tucked away in a small village, a palazzo in a medieval town
– these are the goals of many people from English speaking countries. They
just want a fine property in a place with a good climate and cultural life.
Unfortunately,
property prices in Tuscany, Umbria and around Lake Garda have rocketed
over the past few years and these are the very areas that are not too difficult
to get to from Britain. Yet - since Ryan Air is flying to Ancona, Pescara
and Forli, also our region can be reached easily now.
Lovers of Italy
have been left with one - largely unknown - alternative: Marche (pronounced
markay), ‘Tuscany’s green sister’. ‘We are the whole of Italy in
a single region,’ is what the Marchigiani say about their region. Many
of the people who are disappointed with Tuscany say ‘This is exactly what
we thought Tuscany would be like’.
But don’t get
us wrong: Tuscany is incredibly beautiful - and people who live in Marche
can easily reach it whenever they feel like it. After all, it’s just the
next province. But whilst living in Tuscany is a question of life style
(‘We’ve got a place in Tuscany, you know’) the thing that’s special about
our region is the quality of life.
Moreover, surveys
show that the quality of life in the Marche is the best in the whole of
Italy. The two most northerly provinces of this region, Pesaro/Urbino and
Ancona, have much to offer that cannot be found in Tuscany: sandy beaches,
romantic bays, and delightful hills that lead up to the crags of the Apennines.
Seekers of peace and quiet will find both here. But there is also something
for lovers of bright lights and entertainment. We are just a stone’s throw
away from the coastal resorts of Rimini, Riccione and Cattolica in the
neighbouring region of Emilia Romagna to the north. In the Marche itself
there is Gabicce Mare, Fano and Pesaro (with its own Riviera), Marotta,
Senigallia, Ancona (with its rocky coast line around Monte Conero) - all
tourist centres offering a range of facilities normally associated only
with Milan, Florence and Rome.
Despite the undeveloped
tourist infrastructure (not even the waiters speak English), the Marche
offers many cultural attractions. There are towns like Urbino, the birthplace
of the painter Raffaelo, which boasts a university, museums, galleries,
antiques fairs, a theatre and concerts; and Pesaro, the birthplace of Rossini,
with its opera, music academy, the Rossini Festival, museums, galleries,
concerts and open air events. Then there is the Roman town of Fano which
hosts jazz concerts and summer theatres, a regular antiques fair and historical
exhibitions. These are just three random examples that are typical of the
entire region, where every village has its ‘sagra’, its festivals and summer
theatre.
The provincial
capital Pesaro is ideal for opera and concert visits and gourmet evenings
in first class restaurants, shopping trips and bathing on clean, sandy
beaches that stretch for miles. A visit to the starkly impressive university
town of Urbino. is a ‘must’ for art and architecture lovers. For
those interested in history, there is the whole of the Flaminian Way and
the Furlo Gorge (Europe’s deepest canyon), an archaeological site with
Etruscan and Roman settlements.
If one sets off
from the Roman town of Fano (‘Fanum Fortunae’) the Republic of San Marino
is just thirty minutes by car whilst the important industrial and commercial
city of Bologna with its international airport is an hour and a half away.
The port and capital of the region, Ancona, also has an airport and is
just 30 minutes away. Rome can be reached via the romantic Flaminian Way
(dual carriageway in parts) in just three hours. Arezzo is one and a half
hours away. Ravenna and Perugia - both a must for culture vultures - are
about an hour away.
More on the quality
of life
· The
water of the central Adriatic is rated as ‘good’ or ‘very good’ for bathing.
Over the last few years there have been no surface algae and there are
no large rivers to discharge industrial waste from the interior. The coastal
resorts have good sewage treatment facilities.
· Unlike
Tuscany and the big towns in the south and north, burglaries are virtually
unknown here. Whilst there is petty crime, there is no organised crime,
no problem with drugs, no protection racket and no car thefts. People often
don’t even bother to lock their cars. There is one exception to this rule:
in the height of the summer tourist season some tourists from the north
may steal to support their habit. However, that applies only to the coastal
strip.
· A rigid
building ban - only existing buildings can be extended and renovated -
stops unregulated building in agricultural areas.
Anyone thinking
of retiring to this area must knuckle down to learning Italian, or they
will have a lonely time of it. The people here are certainly friendly and
helpful and you can call on your neighbour at anytime, but they are at
something of a loss with foreigners because they don’t understand them.
But this has nothing to do with hostility to foreigners. On the contrary,
the inhabitants of Marche are an exceptionally likeable sort of people.
There is nothing
false or sly about their dealings with foreigners; they are honest and
hardworking and ‘thoroughly old-fashioned’ in the best sense. ‘Genuine
values’ that have been lost in industrialised areas, even in Italy, can
still be found in the Marche. People keep their word, a handshake is an
agreement, and punctuality is a matter of honour.
The wonderfully
hilly landscape and the fact that the houses are often scattered even if
they are not actually isolated means that one needs to be mobile. A motor
vehicle is a necessity.
Medical care
is good, in terms of both first aid and hospitals. But here again, Italian
is vital. If you want the company of your compatriots, you would be better
off in the ‘Chiantishires’ or the Dordogne.
The climate is
less harsh than in Tuscany and consequently the countryside is greener
– with countless small rivers that are full of fish. But even here, temperatures
in July and August can reach 40 degrees Celsius. From central Italy down,
the typical British request for ‘somewhere facing south’ should be changed
to: ‘Where’s there a bit of shade?’ People here want somewhere facing north.
Winter comes
late - the trees don’t shed their leaves until December and summery days
are not uncommon in November.
March is often
damp and cold. And at higher altitudes there may even be some snow. But
it never gets really cold. The southern sun prevents that and bathes everything
in the fantastic light that is so typical of this area.
That was our
hymn in praise of ‘our’ Marche. There are many things that we haven’t mentioned
because by now we take them for granted. You will discover a lot for yourself
when you visit us for the first time. But please do not expect any miracles
if you want to buy property here. There are no free gifts in this beautiful
area. And we do not believe in bargain hunting, buying a ruin cheaply and
doing it up again cheaply. There is a price to pay for quality.
There are nevertheless
properties at prices that are unthinkable in England. There are properties
in idyllic positions that will rapidly appreciate and can be sold again
at a good profit if the buyer wants or needs to sell (for whatever reason).
If you buy property in the Marche, you are automatically acquiring an asset
that is appreciating by fifteen percent a year. Nevertheless: those who
come here to speculate should do so somewhere else. We are looking for
people who fit in here, not speculators.
In view of the
continuous price increases, many of our clients have decided that the best
thing is to buy now, restore the property (roof, windows, doors) and then
just leave it like that until time, money and opportunity are right for
doing it up completely. This ensures that they can obtain a property that
they might not be able to afford in a few years.
We should also
like to warn you about a curious phenomenon that affects us either directly
or indirectly whenever a contract is signed. When you tell your friends
and acquaintances about your intention to purchase a property in Italy,
people will at first be full of encouragement.
But - and this
has all too often been our experience - when you return home from a visit
with concrete plans for a property that you definitely want to buy, an
incredible thing happens: you will be surrounded by people forecasting
doom and people who 'speak from experience' or 'who know someone who speaks
from experience'.
It is not just
narrow-minded people for whom Italy is the land of car thieves, kidnappers,
bag snatchers, conmen, takers of bribes and the Mafia. Some people, for
example, have direct experience of the neighbouring region of Tuscany that
they feel they have to pass on. Some of these experiences are genuine enough
but others are due to lack of experience, misunderstandings, inadequate
knowledge of the language and the culture clash. Anyway, experiences in
other regions of Italy are not a reliable yardstick for Le Marche.
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